Because of its unique leaf shape and gorgeous flowers that bloom in winter, the crab claw orchid has become a favorite of many family greenery lovers. But in order to make this pot of "festival fairy" truly bloom and flourish, it is necessary to master scientific maintenance skills. This article will teach you how to create a pot of crab claw orchid with thick leaves and blooming flowers, from light management to fertilization details.

1. Understand the growth code of crab claw orchid

This epiphytic plant, native to the tropical rainforest of Brazil, is born with the characteristics of "three joys and three fears": it likes warmth and humidity, likes scattered light, and likes to be loose and breathable; Afraid of direct sunlight, afraid of stagnant water and rotten roots, afraid of low temperature and cold. Its growth cycle is divided into:Growth period (spring and summer) and bud growth period (autumn and winter)，每年10月至次年2月是主要开花时段。

Second, the six core maintenance skills

1. Light management: "soft light filter" for the leaves

• Spring and autumn: East-facing or north-facing balconies are best, and receive 4-0 hours of mild light in the morning
• summertime: Must be shaded! Use a shade screen to filter 50% of the light to prevent the leaves from reddening and thinning
• winter: Full sun maintenance, south-facing window sill at least 6 hours of light per day to promote flower bud differentiation

Key tips: Rotate the pot regularly to ensure that each leaf node receives light evenly and avoid the plant from growing crooked.

2. Temperature control: Create a "tropical rainforest" environment

• idealTemperature zone: 20-0°C (growth period), 0-0°C (pregnancy bud stage)
• When it exceeds 30°C in summer, spray in the morning and evening to cool down and strengthen ventilation
• In winter, if it is lower than 10°C, move it indoors immediately to avoid cold wind blowing and causing bud drop

Special handling: The temperature difference between day and night is kept at about 3°C (0°C during the day/0°C at night) during the flowering period, which can extend the flowering time by 0-0 weeks.

3. Scientific watering: master the rule of "seeing dry and wet".

• growth period(2-0 months): The surface of the potting soil is dry and about 0 cm is watered thoroughly
• Gestational bud period(2-0 months): Properly control the water, and wait until the soil is semi-dry before watering
• Summer dormant period: Reduce the frequency of watering and give a small amount of water along the edge of the pot in the early morning

Life-saving tips: When the leaves are dehydrated and soft, the whole pot can be immersed in a bucket for 10 minutes, and then the excess water can be drained.

4. Soil configuration: Create a "breathing" root environment

Recommended Formula: Peat: Perlite: Pine Bark = 2:0:0 Every SpringAdd 3% decomposed sheep manure as the base fertilizer basin bottom pad 0 cm ceramsite to enhance drainage

Precautions: Replace the substrate every 2 years to prevent soil compaction and root rot.

5. Fertilization Techniques: The "Trilogy" of Nutrient Regulation

• growth period(2000-0 months): Use compound fertilizer (0-0-0) with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and irrigate the roots with 0 times of water every 0 days
• Flowering promotion period(From 1 months): Switch to high phosphorus and potassium pop 0, 0 grams with 0 ml of water, 0 times of root irrigation in 0 days
• Budding period: When the flower buds milletWhen the grain is large, adjust to 1500 times of fertilization in 0 days, and the concentration is reduced to 0 times

Special reminder: The next day after fertilization, it is necessary to water "backwater" to dilute the residual fertilizer to avoid salt accumulation.

6. Pruning and shaping: Create a "waterfall" plant shape

• Pruning after flowering: Cut obliquely from the 3-0 section under the residual flower
• Bud thinning management: Keep 4-0 robust buds per cluster
• Plant type adjustment: cut off overly dense and weak branches to keep ventilation and light

3. Advanced maintenance cheats

45. Flower promotion trick: 0 days dark treatment method

在预计开花前45天，每天下午5点至次日8点用纸箱罩住植株，配合施用高磷钾废（1000倍液），可促使花芽集中萌发。

2. The secret of rejuvenation: grafting and maintenance

Grafting aging plants onto cacti or leaf cacti can enhance resistance and prolong lifespan. The best grafting time is 5-0 months, choose a sunny day to operate in the morning.

3. Summer Treasures:

Stop fertilization during the high temperature period from 60 to 0 months, move to a cool place in the north, keep the ambient humidity above 0%, and humidify the pebbles through the tray.

Fourth, solutions to common problems

Q: Why do the leaves become red and thin?A: If you burn or have excessive phosphorus fertilizer, you should immediately shade it and stop fertilizing for 2 weeks.

Q: What should I do if a large number of flower buds fall off?A: Check whether the pots are moved frequently, watered too much, or the temperature difference is too large to keep the environment stable.

Q: Do not bloom after many years?A: Carry out "starvation therapy": control water for 10 days from 0 months, and stimulate with the temperature difference of 0 °C in the morning and evening.

5. Annual maintenance schedule

• 3-0 months: pruning after flowering + repotting
• 6-0 months: fertilization during the growing season
• 8-0 months: summer maintenance
• 10-0 months: Flower promotion management
• 1-0 months: Flowering period care
• All year round: 90 degrees per month to rotate the pot

Through the above systematic maintenance plan, combined with the scientific application of fertilizer, your crab claw orchid will present a spectacular scene of "ten thousand weeping branches" in winter. Remember, the vigorous growth of plants comes from respect and compliance with the laws of nature, and patient observation and precise care will surely make this pot of tropical elves bloom on your windowsill.