There is never a shortage of innovation in the beautiful rice track.
"60 white rice takeaway is opened in the corner of the second floor of the vegetable market" is rare and strange, salads and light food are classified as "fast food" by the exquisite middle class - barely filling the stomach, but it is not worth the re-winding circle of friends before every meal.
Recently, the top-notch beautiful rice of workers in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou is to take out the patty of the McDonald's hamburger and cover it on the rice, take a Japanese-style small bowl, and collect you 88 in one bowl, and I can't note "add more lettuce".
You say that I can buy six McDonald's poor ghost set meals for the same price and eat them open for a week, but the "Japanese-style hamburger meat specialty restaurant" laughs at you for not understanding the gold content of "freshly grounded, freshly grilled, and freshly cooked".
Not only does the meat have "three appearances", but to eat a noble hamburger meat, you have to go through the eighteen processes from queuing up to grilling it yourself. In order to eat this Japanese-style rice bowl in a "compliant and compliant" manner, the migrant workers had to take a shower and change their clothes before eating.
The migrant workers, who only have an hour of lunch break, secretly sigh that they are out of reach while coveting the newly opened hamburger restaurant in the mall:
"Dear hamburger, what is the best way to eat you in its entirety in 40 minutes?"
In the boring years when the collapse of Internet celebrity hot pot and Internet celebrity barbecue has been almost boring, creating new categories always seems to have more explosive potential than rolling up in the old three.
Listening to the unfamiliar "Japanese-style hamburger restaurant" carrying the banner of "shopping mall queuing king". One of the top brands is [Meat Rice], a greasy and panicked name that has recently begun to appear frequently on the homepage of bloggers in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou.
成立至今两年多，关于这家餐厅在小红书上的帖子已经超过11万条，一批人在推荐，另一批人在问，到底是吃什么的？是把双吉汉堡里的肉饼抠出来吗？
The signboard emphasizes the hamburger meat [specialty store], and the "single-mindedness" of the whole store is visible to the naked eye. There are only three sets of meat and rice: two meat patties with rice, 88 yuan; Three meatloafs with rice, 0 yuan; One cheese patty and two plain meatloaf with rice, 0 yuan. If you look at it, it turns out that the whole store sells one thing, rice with beef patties.
"Except that beef and pork are different, what's the difference between this and slapping a lion's head and putting it on the rice?"
You won't find what you think is the "soul of a Japanese restaurant" here: there's no 10-piece plate of pre-made kombu shreds and mashed potatoes, and there's no after-dinner dessert of matcha Daifuku or pumpkin tart. The menu is minimalist and what you see is what you get, and the three wooden signs on the wall are all there is to it, so that the social fears no longer have to worry about how to explain what they want to eat to the waiter within three rounds of dialogue.
Only in the two things of "expensive" and "small", meat and rice carry out the fine tradition of Japanese restaurants and carry it forward.
Obviously, the bloggers photographed the "super satisfying" meatloaf that was so big that it overflowed the side of the bowl, but when it was your turn, you found that it looked full and overflowed just because the bowl was too small, the beef patty was no bigger than the egg yolk, and putting three more broccoli in the bowl was the limit.
The Internet always can't understand why the pigeon is so big, and when you pick up this small bowl that can be picked up with three fingers, you can't help but wonder, "Why is this bite of meat so big in the photos of bloggers?" ”
Source: Xiaohongshu @ Little Rabbit Don't Farewell, @思琪咯
McDonald's workers who can be full with a hamburger lamented that their own food consumption of meat and rice has risen sharply, and they can "eat three meatloafs in one go", but they don't know that a piece of meatloaf is 300g, and you can't eat more meat in a box of 0g fat beef rolls in a hot pot restaurant after eating three servings.
"It's better to call it a healthy meal, which is suitable for people who lose fat."
"Small but fine" is always used where you least want it, in addition to meatloaf, but also in the storefront.
In order to highlight the "freshly grilled" characteristic, one-third of the space of the meat and rice shop is allocated to the central cooking area, where the yakiniku chef wearing an apron stands by the grill and puts on a "Late Night Canteen" for you. With 40 seats crammed into the 0-square-meter store, you have to admire the extreme efficiency of the use of space: guests sit around the U-shaped table in the cooking area, and if their arms are slightly stretched out to clip the meatloaf seat next to them, they stare at the bowl of rice in front of them, because when you look up, you will meet the same cramped staff in front of you.
Source: Xiaohongshu @Yete
Eating 78 beautiful rice on the same long table on the street Malatang, the "Japanese-style atmosphere of the rice" determines that you want to eat this meal, and queuing is inevitable - starting in half an hour, there is no upper limit.
Probably because the store space is limited and it is fast food, unlike Haidilao, who set up a separate queuing area to provide you with hot water and tea breaks, and the queue of meat and rice does not provide stools, "pure human flesh punishment station".
根据媒体《餐观局》的观察，肉肉大米的日常翻台率达到10轮，按照70元客单价计算，每家店月营业额可以达到100多万。
Source: Xiaohongshu @Joie
But "two years after opening and still queuing" is not true. Meat and rice have opened stores in Beijing and Shenzhen, two of the country's top food deserts, creating a false prosperity of "hamburger meat must be eaten by Chinese". But compared to "must eat", the real reason why you can't eat for two hours may be that the SOP (labeling operating procedure) of eating a hamburger meat is too lengthy.
Meat Rice has succeeded in creating a "hamburger meat version of Omakase": it does not have the precious ingredients of Omakase, but it is aligned in the tediousness and ritual of eating.
First of all, you have to queue up to enter, and "you can only take a seat when everyone is full" to avoid the few seats being occupied. The entrance is led by the clerk, and he will take the trouble to introduce you to the eighteen ways to eat hamburger meat along the way:
The meatloaf is first cooked in a large oven until medium-rare, and the waiter immediately places the half-cooked meatloaf on a separate baking tray in front of each guest, and you can bake it until it is medium-rare or fully cooked according to your preference. The hamburger meat has been transformed into a style of "3000 Ginza teppanyaki per capita".
The pickles at the small table and the soup in the bowl can be refilled for free, but you have to take the initiative to call the clerk to add them, "I cheekily asked the waiter for pickled broccoli three times for a meal, and it felt like I was making a fortune." ”
The original meatloaf may be too greasy, so there are 8 kinds of spices on the self-service spice rack in front of you: barbecue sauce, sukiyaki sauce, yellow mustard, onion sauce, and you can create your own meatloaf flavor.
The Japanese way to eat it is to eat the first patty alone, the second with grape puree and homemade yuzu vinegar, and the third with raw egg yolk and soy sauce. You can also go the Chinese route, mash the meatloaf, add sauce, hot spring eggs, and broccoli from the small table, mix well in a bowl, and the beautiful rice becomes a solid and vegetarian Northeast sauce bibimbap.
Source: Xiaohongshu @ Xiao Leng Leng
There is a pot and a stove, and the creative space for eating can be unlimited.
Someone pioneered the crushing of meatloaf and stir-fried it in a pot with seasonings to make a "minced meat stir-fry", saying that he had understood the essence of this "buffet": the reason why spices and pots are placed in front of each seat is that when you can't eat, you can have one more option to stir-fry yourself.
"Sisters who don't usually have cooking experience come carefully."
After a set of processes, "tiring rice" has become a unique impression of this restaurant by diners, and "excessive sense of ritual is easy to make people forget the taste of rice".
Source: Xiaohongshu @ Strange Taste Wheat
但也总会有人被“仪式感”吸引：漫画感木质装修、日式陶瓷餐具、百分百复刻《蜡笔小新》的汉堡肉，“打卡出片”在肉肉大米变成了一个不太需要思考的动作。
Japanese restaurants have a natural advantage in this regard, and dumpling shop Xijiade also wants to do CBD white-collar business, but you can't add it to your "Spring Week plog" anyway in front of the red fast table and cheap dumpling soup plastic cups. Among the various "beautiful rices" that have long been formulaic, meat and rice still won the highest praise of "it tastes good when you look at the picture" with an amazing Xiaohongshu picture production rate.
Source: Xiaohongshu @ Xiao Leng Leng
The advantage of having only a long table in a restaurant is that it shows that everyone is equal. Any party with more than 2 people is awkward here: friends at the end can't even reach the clinking glasses; The set meal is also served for one person, so there is no need to worry about not being able to eat more flavors of food by one person. Meaty rice seems to be the only place where you don't have to weigh the value for money when you want to eat an expensive meal on your own.
Although it is called "a paradise for one person to eat", "but the real paradise should have partitions", people have said.
Selling 30 pieces of middle-class meatloaf, meaty rice naturally did not forget to emphasize the difference between itself and the cold and fresh meatloaf in the supermarket.
In the advertisement, it is written that he uses "whole beef brain", and as a Japanese restaurant that focuses on "high-quality beef", people will associate it with "Wagyu beef". However, the executive director of Nippon Monogatari Group, the parent company of Meat Rice, mentioned in an interview that because the mainland bans the import of Japanese beef and rice, all meat and rice in the mainland are made of American beef. The "Koshihikari rice" used by Meat Rice, which emphasizes its own rice, is actually planted by Monogatari Group in cooperation with farms in Liaoning Province, and currently produces 600 tons per year. "Because the area is similar to Niigata Prefecture in Japan, it is suitable for cultivating this variety."
So when you are in a Japanese-style beef patty shop, what you eat is actually beef imported from the United States and rice from the black soil of Liaoning Province.
Putting aside the "Japanese style" of rubbing the edges, and returning to the most basic "full" needs of people, you can't say that meat and rice are stingy, after all, rice and broccoli are infinitely free of charge," it is recommended to change the name to broccoli to put the topic, and fitness people are ecstatic. ”
Despite its reputation and rapid opening of stores, Meat Rice was not the first restaurant brand to create "hamburger with rice".
肉肉大米去年10月开进香港沙田，引发的第一波关注不是多少人排队，而是它和「挽肉と米」的正面竞争。
后者是“日式汉堡肉”餐厅的开创者，在香港、台湾等地开有分店，疫情期间“汉堡肉配饭”吃法走红，在日本国内和中国都引起大量品牌效仿。在日本，要吃到一顿「挽肉と米」，需要早上9点前上官网预约抢号。
There are local Internet celebrities "KAI FINE Kaifan" in Beijing, "Meat Rice Burger" in Guangzhou, "Meat Cooked Rice" in Changchun, and "Fat Meat Rice" in Harbin. Whether it is the way to eat hamburger meat with rice, the restaurant layout of the Ming kitchen with a long table, or the promotion point of "freshly fried, freshly grilled, and freshly cooked", or even "free broccoli", these restaurants have almost one-to-one replica of the "Meat Rice" established in 2020.
大概是担心再晚几年自己都要成替身了，「挽肉と米」在今年3月宣布第一家内地门店落户广州。有人问和肉肉大米有什么区别，“类似苹果和小米”。“创始鼻祖”在价格上也不遑多让：香港「挽肉と米」三块肉饼的套餐要158港币，是中环白领们当午餐也要掂量掂量的贵。
Up-and-comers have to thank "Bang Meat Rice" for bringing hamburger meat into the "expensive era".
In Japan, hamburger meat is a common civilian dish in the discount area of 711 and supermarkets, and many people first know this dish in "Crayon Shin-chan", and Nini's mother is also the best at "delicious hamburger steak".
Yoshinoya and Saizeriya have also launched a cheap version of hamburger rice bowls for twenty or thirty yuan. Just as it is difficult for northerners to understand who would go to Xijiade's high-end line to eat freshly wrapped dumplings for 9 yuan a piece, before "Bang Meat and Rice", few people would go to a restaurant to order a hamburger.
汉堡排在60年代作为一种“西洋料理”被日本家庭主妇们列入晚餐菜单，80年代，搭配料理包一起售卖的半成品汉堡排风靡日本超市，汉堡排变成了家庭便捷美食，0制作难度，只需要煎熟、撒上酱料就可上桌，堪称“预制白人饭”鼻祖。
The first step in opening a store is to divide a 270-gram hamburger steak in the supermarket into three small portions. Because the founder Seihei Yamamoto believes that if only one large piece of hamburger meat is used to grill, diners will be annoyed by the temperature and the rice is too large in the middle of eating, and the three small pieces can be "eaten in their own way", and the barbecue chefs can hand out the next piece after the guests have eaten one piece, so as to ensure that the freshness of the meat is not reduced every time.
As a result, you have a "sense of ritual of eating for one" as a customer, and the Japanese mother's fast food has also doubled in value under the meticulous service of the barbecue master.
The one-person food you understand is the "single person spike at the lunch market on weekdays", the cost performance is the top priority, the restaurant with 200 yuan to 0 per capita, and the most expensive one must be selected in the "five staple foods". The Japanese-style home-cooked dishes represented by meat and rice have opened up a new track of "exquisite one-person food" in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, where there are many cattle and horses, and continue to raise the upper limit of the cost performance of the "migrant canteen".
In addition to the hamburger meat restaurant, in the past two years, the main "one-person food rotating sushi" Hama Sushi and Sushiro have also concentrated in the mainland to expand their stores, and the migrant workers who are "addicted to Hamburg" eat the sushi restaurant into a canteen - the amount of 10 plates avoids the embarrassment of "no one to share", the salmon tuna that is usually reluctant to eat is all 0 yuan, and the mobile phone is placed on the small table to put a TV series, you can't imagine how a person can be happier at lunch.
Source: Xiaohongshu @d123
It's just that it seems that the sushi for 200 yuan looks "touching", but the actual price is more than twice the price of local sushishirs in Japan. Self-service ordering at any time, the infinite flow of supply mode on the wheel, and nearly 0 SKUs on the tablet, you will always be thinking about the "one-person food bill" of hundreds of yuan when you finish eating and checkout, "as if you just wanted to have a simple meal at the beginning".
The "Ichiran Ramen", which is also a common food, has taken the concept of one-person food to the extreme, like a shared study room, with cramped seats, one position and one partition, even if it is your boss who is sitting next to you to eat, you will not find each other. But 26 a bowl of noodles and 0 a bowl of white rice make it clear that this is by no means a casual weekday fast food, but evidence of "being kind to yourself".
中国青年报2021年的一项调查显示：67.6%的受访青年认为一个人去餐馆吃饭会感到尴尬，超过三成的人会直接寻找最不显眼的角落入座，30.2%的受访青年最讨厌服务员高喊‘一位，里面请’。
The Japanese restaurants have made the "one-person meal" refined and bigger, and made it into a specialty store, and the migrant workers have completely let go of the original intention of the "special package" under the precise grasp of the "sense of boundary" and "loneliness".
The "home-style" of Japanese food is somewhat curious, and the end point of exquisite one-person food is undoubtedly Chinese food. From noodles to stir-fry, as long as you bring "one-person food", the same dishes in the husband-and-wife restaurant downstairs of your house can also be stationed in the CBD business district: 44's braised pork rice bowl is a "Chinese-style business simple meal"; Dumplings for 0 yuan and a half are the smallest unit of seafood you can eat.
Migrant workers spend three or four hundred yuan to order a poor ghost set meal in Xinrong to avoid big meat, and they can also eat exquisite homely in restaurants with 128 per capita. Order a plate of scrambled eggs with tomato and freshly steamed white rice, and a plate of free pre-dinner oranges will move you to tears, saying "I have the taste of home in a city where industrial raw materials are rampant". Of course, it's probably hard for your mom to empathize with the home-cooked taste that 0 servings of tomato scrambled eggs bring to you.
Source: Xiaohongshu @ I am what I eat in the future
The dispute over whether one-person food is a "pseudo demand" has risen and fallen with the rise and fall of seemingly catering outlets, and the migrant workers who eat the single meal of Xinrongji with 300 people have already given their own answers:
"A person goes to the mall and wants to eat, but it turns out that the set meal is only 2 people, and the large plate can only taste one dish, the waiter asks how many, and you answer one, and you feel like you have done something wrong. Hamburger meat or Xin Rong Kee may not be a must-eat, but in addition to pre-made dishes and takeaways, it is occasionally necessary to go to the fifth floor of the mall alone to have a good meal. ”
Editor|Mr. Tachibana
Author|elbow
Fat Rabbit design
Cover picture source|Xiaohongshu @思琪咯i
Resources:
07.Taipei walker, "The reason for the explosion of popularity in Taipei? Interview with the founder of Yamamoto Shenghei and the founder of Fu Jinshu Wu Yujie", 0.0
10. Economic Week, "Hot Talk Meat Rice: The Great Deconstruction of Past and Present Lives", 0.0
12. Interface News, "Does a one-person restaurant work in China? The best entry point for the Nuggets "one-person food" model is on the retail side? 》，0.0
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